Garden materials selection

I ain't got a barrel of...money,
I can't go a travellin'...honey,
With nothin' to do,
I'll stick with you,
Side by side.

Remember that song?

No?

I can't verify those are the precise words to the song because I couldn't find it on the Internet (oh my!). It's an oldie though, maybe from the thirties or forties? No matter. I'm not going to hum a few bars.

Because I don't have a barrel of money, I shop carefully, watch newspaper ads, and sometimes attend auctions.

I learned a lot from my Mom and Dad--especially about creative uses for common materials. Dad made wood toy axles by threading the ends of brass welding rod when any kind of steel was scarce during WW2. He also made wooden hinges using nails for the pivots. Mom painted old pickling crockery and used it for outdoor "waste baskets". My brother and I used old drapery rods (the tubular variety) for our blow guns and we cut flat felt scraps into tiny circles and inserted 6-penny nails in the center to make darts (very effective and accurate up to twenty feet or so).

Indirectly, my parents taught me to find creative uses for things that may otherwise be discarded. Hence, I don't throw out much (to the chagrin of my wife, but that's another story). So...what's that got to do with gardening?

When it comes to selecting materials to enhance my garden, I look around. I ask: Does the item I want for my garden have to be made from wood, or concrete, or whatever? I'll also consider the unusual.

I discovered a couple of pallets of 1- by 2-inch wood stock in 12- to 18-foot lengths at a building materials auction. No one else bid on them, so I got them cheap. When others have very little imagination, they pass up deals on GREAT stuff. It took four trips with our 3/4-ton Suburban fully loaded to bring that great pile of wood home. I have it stored and covered in three piles. It is a "lifetime" supply of material. My wife is dubious that I'll use it all, but I will...in time.

A portion of my "lifetime supply" of 1- by 2-inch stock (this one is four feet high).

I've found uses for other stuff, too.

When a tree fell on our house, I chain-sawed some of the trunk into 2 to 6-inch thick rounds for use as "stepping stones" alongside our pond.

Chain-sawn wood rounds used as "stepping stones" around the pond.

I had an excess of rock (left over from my pond-building project) and used some of these leftovers for additional pathways.

Leftover rock is a new pathway from arbor to (as-yet unbuilt) "secret" garden.

My shed is 90% recycled materials.

Interior view of garden mini-shed.

Other ways of saving on materials include: dividing roots, saving seeds, "layering" plants, and propagating hardwood and softwood cuttings to build up my supply of plants.

Mother Nature also provides. Birds (and squirrels) contribute seeds around my yard and under trees (mostly these are undesirable plants, but there have been pleasant surprises). I usually will let things grow until I recognize them to be good or bad plants for my yard before pulling/transplanting them.

Cutting propagation planting tray. Close to the kitchen door.

Saving money is actually fun. Especially in the current economic climate.

It doesn't mean I won't spend money. I do invest in quality concrete and metal post holders and long-lasting pressure-treated wood I also use long-lasting cedar where appropriate.

Because I like the "natural" look of things, I don't use plastic for anything except planting trays or planting pots. I recycle (triple-rinsed) 1-gallon milk containers because I like the ease of carrying several at a time (I leave the handles on and poke holes with an ice pick into the bottoms for drainage). Yeah, they're ugly, but free.

Free 1-gallon containers for starting seeds and cuttings.

I'm even planning a sculpture (or wall plaque?) using old lawn mower parts. I'll call it "yard" art. It will reside in my side garden (so as not to embarrass my honey when she shows off the yard).

Planning each project is important so as not to waste materials. Before I head to The Home Depot, I see what materials I have on hand. If I need 6-foot boards, I don't buy 8-footers and trim off two feet. I'll buy 12-footers instead and cut them in half. No waste, that way, and it's more economical, too.

I realize that this article will be appreciated by like-minded persons. The rest of you can think I'm NUTS. That's okay, it takes all kinds to make a world.

Need to hide something? Screen it.

When I built a small shed I had to find a new home for our 15-foot aluminum canoe. I moved the canoe close to our back fence. The neighbors wouldn't have to look at it there.

Our canoe sat, propped off the ground on a 2 by 4 frame until summertime. Occasionally, we hauled it to a nearby lake, paddled it about, and then returned it to its home at the back fence.


Wherever I looked, the canoe and kayak "focals" were always catching my eye.

I enjoy the view from our upstairs bathroom window. Every day I check the weather outside and note any floral progress in the garden. That upended canoe was not a very attractive focal point. I had planted hostas, bleeding hearts and Spanish bluebells in front of the canoe, but that aluminum behemoth rose above the greenery.

I was just getting used to it, when the situation worsened. We acquired a BRIGHT yellow 14.5-foot kayak. Yep. The upended yellow kayak resides above the canoe.


Our kayak and canoe "living out in the open". A small fruiting cherry tree is establishing itself on the left.

From every angle, these watercraft were an eyesore.

What to do? Cover them with a blue tarp? Or a silver tarp? Or devise something permanent because these watercraft were staying a while?

Because our grape arbor looked attractive, it presented me with a design precedent.

I didn't seek wifely approval this time. I instantly knew what would look good. I hurriedly sketched my plan and made another trip to The Home Depot. I purchased two additional pressure-treated 4 by 6 posts, poured concrete footings and plumbed my two new posts. I built the screen of closely spaced 1 by 2's and (with help because of all the weight of the wood) mounted it to the front face of the posts. I could not find upper beams long enough, so I used metal splicing plates and dozens of nails to assemble beams to suit my need. The new upper beams matched those of the grape arbor in style and provide support for hanging planters.


The new screen is quite effective in disguising the watercraft.


The watercraft screen from another viewpoint.

I made a pair of wood plant carriers to match the screening and hung them with lightweight dog chains. The screen lies in near-total shade, so I plant primroses, fuschias, and impatiens in the plant carrier baskets.

I hardly notice the canoe and kayak at all these days. I'll soon plant climbing hydrangeas to train up the posts, which will help soften the architecture of the screen and, when established, will add a new vertical dimension to the existing greenery.

A small home-made storage shed

Everyone who owns a home needs additional storage space, right?

Maybe not? But I did.

I wanted to store 10 new green stackable plastic lawn chairs but I had too much stuff already in my garage. With crowded narrow aisleways, it was a hassle to get to anything in my garage. I needed a permanent place for seasonal items so I designed and built a storage shed.

Where to place the shed was my first consideration. Since I already had great plans for the rest of the yard, I decided that the new shed could be placed under an existing deck. The shed would displace a canoe that I'd have to find another spot for, but under the deck was underutilized space.

I usually start projects with existing materials to save money. I had some leftover scrap wood (from rebuilding the back deck and from a downstairs remodelling project). I also had a supply of 2 by 6's (free for the hauling) that had been used as concrete forms--these I used for the floor joists and flooring. I set the flooring on six bricks so the wood would stay high and dry during inclement weather.


Floor framed and back wall in place. (Note: the floor is resting on six bricks to keep the framing dry.)

I spent $50 on my 6- by 8-foot shed. The priciest part was the roofing. Since the shed was to be located beneath the deck, I opted for clear corrugated vinyl panels in 12-foot lengths ($16 each at The Home Depot). These I cut in half by reversing the blade in my portable power saw and running it across the panels (supported top and bottom with 2 by 4's). Friction sawing is the easiest way to cut through plastics. It leaves a smooth cut and there is minimal chance of fracturing/chipping the panels. (Just remember to put the blade back in correctly or you'll burn wood with it next time you use it.)

I laid out the walls on the sport court and had my son help me lift them onto the floor platform. Most of the walls were made from recycled 2 by 4's and recycled interior plywood. I did use a pair of 2 by 6's for the long window header, but 2 by 4's in this circumstance would have been plenty (there is virtually no load on the roof). Since I planned to paint the outside, it didn't matter these materials weren't new.


In-process framing. Always use a framing square!



Note the overhanging portion of the plywood on the frame. It will be attached to the floor framing. That is my youngest son working the pneumatic nailer. I'm prepping him for a lifetime of handyman fun.


The roof is a shed-style roof (higher in the back than in front) and I used 2 by 4's for that short span (about 63 inches) and tied them to the walls with metal hurricane anchors (right-angle metal ties) and screws. The vinyl roof covering doesn't weigh much and snow will never accumulate under the deck. If this shed were designed to be out in the elements, I'd use 2 by 6's for the rafters, just to be safe. I spaced the rafters two feet apart to allow for direct fastening of the corrugated panels and placed purlins between each rafter at each end and another one staggered in the center between rafters for additional panel fastening surfaces and held the center ones with decking screws.


Roof framing detail with clear panels in place.

Using a portable drill and decking screws really speeds the framing process.

I did leave a foot clearance between the shed roof and the bottom of the deck joists, for maintenance. However, repainting the bottom side of the deck will be a hassle in future (I'll have to cover the shed roof with a tarp to keep drips off the clear vinyl panels and probably have to use a long-handled roller).


Three walls up and braced. I filled that hole with a pick-up canopy window.


To maximize the available space inside the shed, the only door opens outward and is on one end. I also used one old pick-up truck canopy window I had for additional interior lighting. I simply framed the sides for that size of window and screwed it in place using existing window frame screw holes. I installed a screen door "removable" storm window (aluminum-framed glass) into the endwall opposite the door and held it in place with ripped-down lath strips (inside and out).


Rear window salvaged from a screen door "storm" window. Note: this is not a load-bearing wall so all framing shown was for the convenience of nailing surfaces for the outside panelling

To finish off the project, I added 1 by 4 trim around the windows and around the outside of the roof and to cover all four corners. An air-powered nailer or a screw gun make this a fast process.

Shown below is one simple door latch.


Latch to hold door closed (there is another closer to the bottom)

─I tried to leave enough clearance between the shed roof and the decking joists above it for maintenance (cleaning, painting, repairs).

I painted the shed to match the house and added a mini-shelf outside beneath the window to hold little 4" potted plants.


Shown are the window trim and the plant shelf drilled for 4" pots



I added shelving to the inside on both long walls to hold canning supplies and kindling and balls used on the sport court. The shed is full now and a convenient dry place to store our lawn furniture.

You probably won't need a permit to build a small shed like mine, but you should check with your local authorities anyway. Normally, if you can purchase a kit from the Home Depot that is 120 square feet or less and it's located at least three feet from any property line, you will be okay. You may want to check with your neighbors first if you're going to obstruct their view in any way.

I'll probably build another shed soon, because my storage needs continue to grow. I have a spot picked out for it on the shaded north side of our house. I also want to build a potting table in that same area (maybe I'll build a combination of the two? or change my mind completely?), an entry archway is also in the planning, plus a side-gate archway, and a "secret garden", and...