Garden Entrances (part 2) ...This Time With a Seat

"Transition" areas in my garden signal changes. In this case, moving from the "sports court" onto the meandering garden path.

Several transitions include: going from a hard concrete surface to a crunchy "giving" surfacing (in this case, crushed rock); an opposite activity/mood change from sports activities to passive garden sights; an overhead passage from mostly airy sky into the heavy shade of trees; a mood change from the square-cut, somewhat formal structured/active to the passive/casual that includes a seat upon which to rest; moving from open-air (and somewhat sparse) area to an enclosed area filled with "eye candy"; and finally, the accent/mood color transition from a cheery yellow to a contemplative lavender.

All this is signaled in the entry structure which leads one through these changes. Similarly, when moving in the opposite direction, the entry structure becomes an exit-from-the-garden structure, again signaling a change in mood or activity.

Advantages created by the built-in seating include: 1) safe, yet close, observation of sports activities, or 2) a place to rest and wait your turn at such activities, 3) an invitation to relax, 4) potential for a romantic interlude, 5) a secret get-away spot to read a book, or 6) just a private place to hang out away from the crowds.

I started with a rough plan which I modified several times. I didn't use bolts, instead opting for 3-inch decking screws throughout. This is my highly modified plan:


The overall construction is similar to the 6-post entry (see Garden Entrances part 1), but this entry uses only three posts. And, because there is no "ceiling," I also opted for diagonal bracing, which matches the bracing on an adjacent water craft screen.

Construction of the framework:

I first dug three holes for the outside posts and measured the distances between them and across from each other before leveling and backfilling with dirt. The width of the crushed rock path was one determining factor and another was a very large tree root, which limited the distance to the third post and the length of my entryway seat.

With posts in place and leveled, I placed 18-inch extensions on the tops of these three posts and leveled the three tops to each other. I used temporary scabbing to hold each extension to its post.

An extension is on top of the post and a temporary scab board holds it to its post.

I trimmed the ends of the entry 2 by 8 cross beam ends to match the others in the garden.

Cut block from a beam end is used as a template for the end-of-beam cut-outs.

Using my level, I ensured that the third post top was level with the other pair (I cut this extension a little long for use as the base for a birdhouse).

I added horizontal temporary scabs to keep the 2 by 8 beams level before fastening these to the extension tops. I used three-inch decking screws to fasten twin 2 by 8 8-foot beams over the entryway.

Temporary horizontal scab is in place to keep the beam level on the post for fastening.

With the cross beams secured, I removed the beam scab boards and then cut 2 by 4 "supports" for each post and mounted these to all the outside post edges to permanently cover the splices. These supports extended approximately 4 to 5 inches below the splices and are fastened with decking screws.

Mounting 2 by 4 beam "supports" to the posts.

I centered and leveled a permanent beam nailer block on the center beam to provide a fastening surface for the connecting beams to the third post. One end of the two connecting beams was cut square and the other end was cut to match the ends of the entry pair. See the sequence in the pictures below.

Aligning the permanent nailer with a level.

Permanent 2 by 4 nailer fastened with 3-inch deck screws.

An inside view of cross beams where they join the central post.

Outside view of those same cross beams.

I then cut 4 by 4 diagonal "brackets" from a spare 4 by 4 post to add stiffness to the structure. Again, I used three inch decking screws for fastening.

4 by 4 diagonal stiffener shown covering a portion of the splice point.

With the splices covered, I removed all temporary scab blocks and added the remaining "support" blocks to each post.

Each support was individually measured and cut so they met at the same point all around the post. Each outside post has three supports and the central post has two supports and two diagonal brackets.

All the 4 by 4 diagonal stiffeners and 2 by 4 "support" blocks are in place.

Since there is no 2 by 4 top to this entry arbor the main beams act as a top.

Bench construction follows:

First I determined a comfortable seat angle by sitting in some chairs at home. I then constructed this simple 2-board, 1-bolt jig and tightened the nut when I discovered the perfect angle.

Homemade angle jig adjacent to my right angle framing square.

I used 2 by 4 pressure-treated stock to cut the seat bottoms to length and 2 by 6 pressure-treated stock to cut the seat backs. The seat backs were run through a table saw to achieve a taper at the top and greater width at the bottom. To get matching pairs, I temporarily screwed two 2 by 6's together.

Work pieces screwed together and then sawn at an angle.

They didn't all turn out exactly alike (I needed three backs per seat), so I placed three together and hand planed them.

Hand planing the back supports to make them equal in size.

Using the seat angle jig, I determined that each seat back support piece needed a 3 degree angle cut off the wide (bottom) edge.

Saw set for 3 degree angle cut on bottom of seat back support pieces.

The seat bottoms were contoured with a band saw (a jigsaw would also work for this step). Then the back and seat supports were primed and painted.

I assembled each seat back and seat bottom pair and drove in decking screws from both sides. Because the outside pairs of seat backs would be attached to the inside edges of their support posts, these were assembled as opposites.

I added an overlength 2 by 4 to the bottom backside to create a framework assembly and carefully screwed the support pairs to it to make a "snug" fit between the posts. The extra length would allow an additional screw to hold the framework to the post. It was probably overkill, but I like my seating to be solid.

I also added stiffeners at a point near the front of the seats. These stiffeners were staggered so I could drive in the decking screws. I repainted any areas that were bare and also covered the screw heads.

Close-up of the staggered front-of-seat stiffeners.

When the completed framework was dry, I mounted it loosely between the posts and leveled the seat at 16 1/2 inches off the ground. With the seat slats installed, it will be approximately 17 inches off the ground, a comfortable height for most adults.

Measuring seat height above the ground.

Checking level and then fastening the rear seat frame 2 by 4 to the post. Note the added length of the 2 by 4 at the back.

I measured the arm rests as I held them against the post and the in-place back frame and cut out a pair of arm rests from 2 by 6-inch stock.

Two by 6-inch stock cut for matching arm rests.

The arm rests were clamped in place to check the fit and a bottom support angle was cut from a 2 by 4 to meet under the seat on the post and under the arm rest while it was still level.

These pieces were then primed and painted before assembly.

Primed arm rests and one arm rest support.

Each arm rest was clamped and checked for level (again) before fastening to its corresponding post.

Right hand arm rest leveled and ready to screw into post.

The support braces were then attached to the arm rest, the post, and the seat frame.



Left hand arm rest in place with support brace in place beneath it.

The seat and back slats were primed and painted after I made cut-outs where the support braces intersected the seat and where the arm rests intersected the seat backs.

Painted seat slats awaiting installation.

The seat slats were attached to the framework and all exposed wood and screw heads were painted.

Slats added to seat and back.

The completed entry seat.

The completed entry.

Need to hide something? Screen it.

When I built a small shed I had to find a new home for our 15-foot aluminum canoe. I moved the canoe close to our back fence. The neighbors wouldn't have to look at it there.

Our canoe sat, propped off the ground on a 2 by 4 frame until summertime. Occasionally, we hauled it to a nearby lake, paddled it about, and then returned it to its home at the back fence.


Wherever I looked, the canoe and kayak "focals" were always catching my eye.

I enjoy the view from our upstairs bathroom window. Every day I check the weather outside and note any floral progress in the garden. That upended canoe was not a very attractive focal point. I had planted hostas, bleeding hearts and Spanish bluebells in front of the canoe, but that aluminum behemoth rose above the greenery.

I was just getting used to it, when the situation worsened. We acquired a BRIGHT yellow 14.5-foot kayak. Yep. The upended yellow kayak resides above the canoe.


Our kayak and canoe "living out in the open". A small fruiting cherry tree is establishing itself on the left.

From every angle, these watercraft were an eyesore.

What to do? Cover them with a blue tarp? Or a silver tarp? Or devise something permanent because these watercraft were staying a while?

Because our grape arbor looked attractive, it presented me with a design precedent.

I didn't seek wifely approval this time. I instantly knew what would look good. I hurriedly sketched my plan and made another trip to The Home Depot. I purchased two additional pressure-treated 4 by 6 posts, poured concrete footings and plumbed my two new posts. I built the screen of closely spaced 1 by 2's and (with help because of all the weight of the wood) mounted it to the front face of the posts. I could not find upper beams long enough, so I used metal splicing plates and dozens of nails to assemble beams to suit my need. The new upper beams matched those of the grape arbor in style and provide support for hanging planters.


The new screen is quite effective in disguising the watercraft.


The watercraft screen from another viewpoint.

I made a pair of wood plant carriers to match the screening and hung them with lightweight dog chains. The screen lies in near-total shade, so I plant primroses, fuschias, and impatiens in the plant carrier baskets.

I hardly notice the canoe and kayak at all these days. I'll soon plant climbing hydrangeas to train up the posts, which will help soften the architecture of the screen and, when established, will add a new vertical dimension to the existing greenery.

Rebuilding a grape arbor...or, how to spend mucho moolah...

I realized our 35-year-old wobbly wooden grape arbor would not survive another year when I noticed two of its six cedar posts completely rotted off inside their metal support brackets. The tree-side posts seemed to stand higher than the rest of the posts. The brackets themselves were also well rusted.


Note the lower 1/4-inch bolt is almost rusted through in the metal post bracket shown.

The concrete beneath the arbor had cracked and been lifted by tree roots. In any struggle between concrete and tree roots─the roots win.

A portion of our backyard concrete sport court was being repaired/replaced (due to a fallen tree) at this time, so I had our contractor jack-hammer the busted arbor concrete floor and remove it as well.

I don't know which idea came first, a new shady area crushed rock pathway or replacing the arbor floor. I knew that crushed rock for the arbor floor would allow for tree root movement and stay in place.

While considering the rebuilding process, I concluded the old arbor wasn't too practical. It was only six-and-a-half feet tall and made me feel claustrophobic when I stood inside it. It's footprint was also small (just under eight feet wide and eleven feet long), barely enough to accommodate a picnic table. With the low "ceiling" I always had the impression spiders could easily drop onto my head.

I'd read that garden structures (patios, decks, pergolas, etc.) should be generous-sized because our vision of our outdoor space includes neighboring trees and sky.

My advice: BEFORE you build (or buy) something, go outside and visualize your project twice the size you drew on paper and you'll see what I mean. If you buy at the garden centers, take a picture of the item first with someone standing beside it for 'human' scale and then take the photo home and visualize that item on your property. Way too much stuff sold in the garden centers looks tiny (out-of-proportion) when placed in your landscape back home. (In my humble opinion, of course.)

The old arbor posts were cedar 4 by 4's and the horizontal cross beams that tied to the posts were cedar 2 by 4's with cedar 2 by 2's nailed onto the cross beams to support the grapevine. Nearly half of the top 2 by 2's were cracked or broken due to falling limbs over the years. Each of the six posts was crossbraced in two directions with 2 by 4's which somewhat restricted access to and from the arbor. Seven-foot integral benches were fastened between the end posts, which further restricted entry.


Sketch of the old arbor.

I decided that the original 4 by 4 posts looked too skimpy, and six of them were too many. I opted for four 4 by 6 posts and drew a to-scale sketch to determine pleasing proportions. I opted for a pair of 2- by 10-inch by 16-foot-long main beams, which allowed some overhang on each end.

The grape vine was very old and heavy (and the thick trunk appeared brittle), so I left the old arbor temporarily in place. I increased the overall footprint and placed four cardboard tubes (to hold new concrete footings and new post brackets) in their proper places. I was careful to level the tubes to each other using a long 2 by 4 and my level. After the concrete was in the tubes, I carefully set the new metal bracket post supports in the wet mix and tapered the top of each concrete footing to drain off water.

Once the concrete had cured a couple of weeks I placed the four posts and braced them as I would fence posts (I tacked a 1 by 4 to each post and to a nearby stake in two directions after checking for plumb in each direction).

Getting those long heavy 2 by 10's into place required the assistance of my daughter and a stepladder. I tacked a temporary chunk of wood near the top of each post to support the beam from below until I could get a couple huge nails pounded into each end to secure them to the posts. Before raising those beams I fancied up the ends. I started the two cuts with a portable circular saw and finished them with a handsaw.


The "fancy" end required two cuts: one from the bottom and one angled in from the end. Simple, yet effective and decorative.

To tie all the posts together, I cut two 2- by 10-inch cross-beams to fit between the long beams and nailed them to the posts on both ends. I considered adding another crossbeam in the middle (supported by joist hangars), but decided it wasn't necessary.

For wind stability, I cut a pair of 4 by 4 by 8's into eight pieces with 45 degree ends. I will refer to these as the 'angled wood supports'. See cutting pattern below.

If you decide to cut something similar, it helps if you have a 10" or larger chopsaw because these cuts can take a REALLY long time if you're doing it with a hand saw. Home Depot sells a utilitarian Ryobi 10" model for $99.


My 10" Ryobi chopsaw. Very handy for outdoor projects. Lightweight, strong, easy-to-operate (and cheap).

A table saw or a radial arm saw works for this too, but handling 4 by 4 by 8's on a table saw can be challenging. (Should I should write an article about the tools I use when building garden structures some day?)


The dashed lines depict the 4 by 4 cutting pattern. Cutting the wood angled supports goes much faster with a 10" powered chopsaw set at a 45 degree angle.

I mounted the angled wood supports to the posts with 5-inch long 1/2-inch diameter lag screws into pre-drilled and pre-countersunk (at an angle) holes in the brackets.

TOOL TIP: If you're using a hand brace with a lead-in-screw tip on the end of the drillbit, drill the countersink FIRST, otherwise there's nothing for the lead-in screw to grab into except "air".
TOOL TIP: The countersink bit size (diameter) is determined by the outside diameter of the lag bolt washer you use.


My hand brace and countersinking drill bit with lead-in screw tip (shown on left).

I needed a helper (again) to hold the angled wood supports in place while I fastened the lag bolts with a socket wrench.


Note the angled countersink where the bolt attaches to the wooden angled support.

A pair of lag screws (with washers) were attached through the outside of each corresponding beam and into the upper portion of each angled wood support.


Two lag bolts hold the upper end of the wood angled support to the long beam. (If you look closely, you'll see my oopsie, two extra holes drilled to the right of the existing lag screws. Well...I never said I was perfect.)

I placed a couple of 2 by 4's on top and gently eased the vine up to its new location. Then I slipped additional 2 by 4's into place along the long beam while a helper continued lifting the vine (for clearance) with the aid of a long stick.


This is the arbor today. Picture was taken in early spring, the grapevine is just beginning to leaf out and Cookie, our dog, is standing in the rain. She is part Yellow Lab, but definitely not a "water dog", so go figure.

The finished arbor has been in place about a year and I expect it to last at least 30 years. I used pressure-treated lumber and galvanized hardware throughout. The bottoms of the posts should drain freely in the crushed rock.


The arbor is shown with the grapevine in full bloom last summer. That's a cherry tree in the right foreground.

I'm guestimating our rebuilt arbor cost about $500, including forms, hardware and lumber. I bought my materials during the recent housing boom. Perhaps one could build one for less today. If you do, DON'T skimp on the quality of your materials. There's a lot of labor in this project, so you'd want it to last a LONG time.

I cut up the old cedar arbor into small pieces and split it. It had never been treated or painted, so it provided lots of kindling for the firepit.